Lauterbrunnen

This post, despite being entitled Lauterbrunen, will cover most of the Jungfrau region.  The reason we didn’t name the post “The Jungfrau Region” though is that the main event in this centrally located region of Switzerland is, in our opinion, the small town of Lauterbrunen.  Jungfrau is arguably the best and, in my opinion, in arguably, the most beautiful region of Switzerland, which puts it high in the running for most beautiful towns in the world.  So when you visit Jungfrau, it is our opinion that you should stay in Lauterbrunen and visit the other surrounding towns either via their ample train and bus system or with a car of your own. 

The town of Lauterbrunen sits at the center of a cluster of mountain and lake towns, in the Jungfrau region of Switzerland, that are all well worth a visit on any vacation to Switzerland.  Lauterbrunen is a small Alpine village that sits in the valley between two shear cliff faces on either side.  At the top of these cliffs are two small towns, Wengen and Mürren.  On your visit to this valley you can stay in any of the three towns.  There is a train and lift that runs continuously from Lauterbrunen below to the towns above.  It is fairly inexpensive, easy to use and takes only a few minutes to bring you to the top. 

Wengen is a bit bigger and has some more restaurants and hotels than Mürren which is smaller and more residential.  We would recommend staying in Lauterbrunen or Wengen if you plan on staying in the area.  The views from Wengen and Mürren are stunning, but for us it was more enjoyable to not have to take the train down every time we wanted to leave Lauterbrunen as the trains to other towns, like Grindelwald and Interlaken all leave from Lauterbrunen’s train station.

Other towns around this region (all within about a 15-20 min drive or train ride) are Interlaken, which is named for the fact that it sits between two great Swiss lakes, and Grindelwald, which is an alpine ski resort town featuring the tallest mountain peak in all of Europe, Jungfrau.  If you decide to stay outside of Lauterbrunen, we would pick Grindelwald over Interlaken.  We prefer the charming, authentic quaintness of the three towns around Lauterbrunen’s valley over either Grindelwald’s bustling touristy sports scene and Interlaken’s city center and sprawl around the two lakes.  For transport passes that cover the trains, busses and numerous lifts in the area, check out the Jungfrau Travel Pass which you can buy online or at any kiosk that sells train or lift passes in any of the towns.

What to Do in Lauterbrunen

Explore the Land of a Thousand Waterfalls

Walk around Lauterbrunen checking out all the waterfalls.  Lauterbrunen is known for its stunning waterfalls.  There is one main road in Lauterbrunen that runs through its center in between the two cliffs that shoot straight up on either side.  Almost all of the hotels and restaurants in Lauterbrunen (as well as the train station) are on this main road.  As you continue into the valley the road becomes smaller and narrower, the town slowly disappears and you are left with some of the most fantastic natural beauty to hike through.  Hundreds of waterfalls line this never-ending walk.  You can also rent bikes and have quite an epic bike ride through the valley.

One of the coolest waterfall experiences is at Trummelbach Falls, Europe’s largest subterranean waterfalls.  Check it out to see something totally unique.

Walk Behind a Waterfall

One of the first waterfalls that you will encounter is Lauterbrunen’s largest and most famous waterfall, Staubbach Falls.  There is a well defined hiking path and concrete stairs that lead you right up to the base of the waterfall where you can even walk behind the waterfall and look out through its falling water stream.

Take the Train to Wengen

Accessed by the small cog-wheel train that leaves Lauterbrunen’s train station, Wengen is the perfect place to spend an afternoon walking around, enjoying the amazing view of the valley below and taking in a simply unreal sunset.

Chez Meyer’s

While visiting Wengen, make sure to get a reservation at Chez Meyer’s for one of the best and most scenic meals you will enjoy anywhere on Earth.  Located in the historic Hotel Regina, this tasting menu is surprisingly reasonable for the level of food and service before you even account for the view.  The fact that this is in Switzerland and even remotely reasonably priced is frankly unbelievable.  You can choose between 3-, 4-, or 5- course menus that range from 100CHF to 150CHF.  If you visit in summer make sure to ask for an outdoor table for a truly magical experience.

If you’re looking for something more casual, Hotel Regina also has a more casual restaurant option that has the same stunning views of the valley with a simpler Asian inspired menu, called Jack’s Brasserie.

Don’t leave this region without eating one meal while enjoying this incredible view.

Have Fondue in a Gondola or Raclette in a Hut

The Sunstar Hotel as two very unique dining options that are well worth checking out.  The first is a romantic fondue dining experience in a gondola for two.  Click HERE for more informtion.

And, the other option is a raclette dinner inside a raclette hut.  Click HERE for more information.

Wengen to Männlichen Hike

Wengen to Männlichen hike is another one of the best things to do in Lauterbrunnen, where an upward trail leaves from Wengen via the Eiger Ultra Trail. The full hike is 4.9 km that takes roughly 2-hours past some of the best scenery we’ve come across in the region.  Some of the trails are narrow and steep and not necessarily great for beginners.

Männlichen is one of the newer cable car routes to be included on the Jungfrau Travel Pass as a stop between Grindelwald, Wengen, and Grund, and it is possible to take the Männlichen cable car from Wengen and just start at Männlichen Cable Car Stop for the final stretch known as The Männlichen Royal Walk.  If you pay an extra couple Euros you can even sit on top of the cable car in the open air.

There’s a nice crown at the top, and this hike (or upward stroll really) is only around 20-minutes, at the most, walking there and then less back.  From here you can take the cable car to Grindelwald or many people will do something similar where they take the cable cars to Männlichen, do the 20 min hike around the top and then take the more leisurely downhill route back to Wengen.

There is also an alternative option from Männlichen with a hike to the pass at Kleine Scheidegg (1-hour 30 minutes) before following the downhill trek from Kleine Scheidegg (2-hours 30-minutes) back to Wengen.

Mürren to Grutschalp Hike

An easy but one of the most scenic hikes in the region is the one from Mürren to Grutschalp.

This hiking trail starts beside the Mürren train station and gradually meanders down to Grutschalp via the hamlet of Winteregg.

The well-made path offers an interesting and panoramic route – alongside the railway line, through alpine meadows, and over rushing streams.

There are some wonderful viewing opportunities of the Eiger, Jungfrau, and Monch as you make your descent (or ascent) on the Mürren to Grutschalp.

The path is mostly flat and suitable for all ages and it’s recommended you allow around 1-hour and 10-minutes to complete this hike.

Paragliding

For the thrill seakers out there you can book a tandem paragliding outing where an experienced paraglider will take care of all the gliding while you simply strap in and enjoy the ride.  The paragliding experience will run you about $190.

Photo Curtesy of Piz Gloria

Visit Piz Gloria 

Many movie scenes have been shot at Piz Gloria, one of the Alps highest points, but it is most famous for its inclusion in the 1969 James Bond 007 film, “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.”  Located atop the Schiltorn, a nearly 3000 meter high summit, Piz Gloria features the longest aerial cableway in the Alps, a rotating restaurant, a helicopter pad and some of the most awe-inspiring panoramic views over Switzerland.  From this peak you can see over 200 mountain peaks jutting up over Switzerlands spectacular landscape.  The restaurant is a must stop on a trip to the region.  Everyone of the 400 seats in this giant spinning, solar powered restaurant provides incredible 360 degree panoramic views.  And, you can enjoy Sean Connery’s legendary “Martini, shaken, not-stirred” at the James Bond Bar on site.  Additionally, you can enjoy the special James Bond breakfast, served daily from 08:00 to 11:00am every day. You can buy tickets at the lift station across from the train station in Lauterbrunen that will first take you to Mürren and then from Mürren you will take the cable car to Piz Gloria.

Where to Eat in Lauterbrunen

Chez Meyers – One of the most fantastic restaurant experiences anywhere on Earth.  The food is only outdone by the incredible views.

Weidstübli – A small, rustic log cabin restaurant where you can get an excellent fondue.

Visit Grindelwald

A short 15-20min drive or train ride from Lauterbrunen is the magical alpine ski resort town of Grindelwald.  In winter months, winter sports like skiing, snowboarding and sledding rule the day.  But, in the summer months there’s two must-do’s in Grindelwald as well.

Things to do in Grindelwald

First Mountain

A smaller mountain, named First Mountain, should be one of your first stops in Grindelwald.  There’s two things to do on First Mountain in the summer.  You’ll take the cable car to the top and then follow the well defined, flat and relatively easy hike out to Bachalpsee Lake.  There’s a small hill at the beginning of the hike, but after that the hike is fairly easy and mostly flat.  The hike takes between 45 min and an hour to complete if you don’t take any breaks and walk at a steady, unhurried pace.  At the end of the hike is one of the most stunning scenes you’ll ever see.  Bachalpsee Lake is a freshwater lake that sits on the very top of the mountain.  The water is crystal clear and with the peaks of Jungfrau Mountain behind them, the photos you’ll get are simply unbelievable.

After hiking out to see Bachalpsee, you’ll simply turn around and come back the way you came.  When you reach the top of the mountain where the gondola lets you off, however, there are what is referred to as the 4 Activities.  Instead of simply taking the cable car down, there are four adventure activities that you can use to get down the mountain.  The first is called the First Flyer which is a zip line that you sit in that flies you across the Alpine top of the Mountains below.  Next you will do the First Glider which is similar to the zip line, but in this one instead of sitting in a swing, you will be laying flat on your stomach, suspended from above flying across the Alps like an eagle.  After this you’ll take the First Mountain Cart, a giant tricycle that uses gravity to propel you down the mountain path.  And, finally, you will be given a Trottibike, essentially a standing scooter that you will use to ride the rest of the way down.

If you’re running even the slightest bit late or want to take your time for the Bachalpsee hike, I cannot stress enough how important it is to get to the activities as early as possible.  Ideally, you’ll arrive at least 15min before they start letting people on the First Flyer.  If you show up during peak season, even just 1 hour after the activity starts, expect to wait in long lines.  If you get there right away you’ll fly through the first two activities which often have the longest waits.  If you have a travel pass I would even suggest doing the activities first, then taking the gondola back up to do the hike.

While you’re at the top of First Mountain make sure to check out and walk across their skywalk and then grab a drink on their stunning outdoor patio.

You’ll want to get to the base of First Mountain early in the morning, right when they open so that you can get in all the activities.  Make sure you have a flexible schedule as well since the weather changes hourly in the Alps.  It’s best to show up around 8:30 when the first gondola heads up the mountain and ask the people behind the desk if the weather is looking good for you to do the hike and the 4 Activities down.  They have access to a special weather app that is surprisingly accurate with regards to rain and clouds.  The 4 activities run from the middle of May up to the last week in October.  Check for availability if you are going to be there near the beginning or end of the season as the dates change every year.

Jungfraujoch

The Jungfraujoch is referred to as the Top of Europe as it is a large base stationed atop the highest peak in Europe on the Jungfrau Mountain range.  The journey to this peak is just as much a part of the experience as actually getting to the top.  Considered the most scenic train ride on the planet, the Jungfrau Railway will take you climbing some 3160m above sea level to the highest rail station in Europe.  The train, while an undoubtedly expensive ticket, provides huge scenic windows and some of the best views in the world. Take the train from the main center train station in Grindelwald (Tip: the early morning train tickets are significantly cheaper).  And, once you reach the station at the top you’ll be enthralled with 360 degree views of the Alps which you can see for miles in all directions, you’ll see the Alps longest glacier, walk through glacier tunnels filled with ice sculptures, enjoy a series of multimedia experiences that take you back in time over 100 years of history of the Jungfrau Railway and show you 360 cinematic views of the mountain landscape you’d never see otherwise, you’ll stop in at the world’s highest Lindt Chocolate Shop, you’ll enjoy fantastic food and drinks at their restaurants and bars, and finally you can both take a zipline over the glacier or even hike across the glacier if you dare.  The railway and the Jungfraujoch are open 365 days per year.

A day trip that leaves from Lauterbrunnen at 7:30 and returns at about 13:30 can be booked for around $170 HERE.

Pfingstegg and Grindelwald’s Tin Tobogganing

If you only have a short amount of time and still want to see the view from one of the peaks overlooking Grindelwald’s valley, head up the Pfingstegg gondola which will drop you off on a peak with a decent view in a matter of minutes.  After checking out the views make sure to take a ride down their Tin Toboggan.

Gletscherschlucht

Make sure to check out the massive glacier canyon and outdoor park, Gletscherschlucht.  You can catch the bus from Grindelwald’s central station and be at the mouth of this ravine in 10 min.  Walkways fastened to the side of the ravine and a massive net called the spider web offer plenty of climbing and hiking opportunities.

Where to eat in Grindelwald

Boutique Hotel Glacier

For fantastic food and an unmatched view of the mountains surrounding Grindelwald, make sure to have a lunch or dinner at Hotel Glacier.

Eat Fondue.  Some of the best places for fondue listed below:

Barry’s

Stallbeizli Heubode

Restaurant Jägerstübli

Schmitte & Gastübli

A small word about fondue:  If you’ve never ordered fondue in Switzerland it can be kind of confusing.  Traditionally fondue is a meal that is designed to be shared.  It is against Swiss dining etiquette to order a single serving of fondue for one person.  One, it is hard to keep that little amount of cheese melted and not stuck to the side of the bowl and, two, most restaurants don’t want to deal with the intense clean up required when cheese is stuck to the bowl for one person.  Most restaurants will simply tell you “no” if you try to order a fondue for one.  Two is the minimum in almost all restaurants.  

Furthermore, you do not order a fondue for each person.  You order one fondue that is shared between everyone that wants some.  Fondue is ridiculously expensive in Switzerland.  In fact, locals mostly laugh that tourists will spend $80 on some melted cheese and bread, but you’re in Switzerland, you can’t leave without trying their national dish.  On most menus you’ll often see “Fondue – 2 person minimum” and then you’ll see the price per person where a two person fondue might be 40 CHF, a 3 person fondue 60 CHF and so on.  An unlimited number of people can share in the fondue.  So you can order a 2 person fondue and ask for 4 skewers so 4 people can partake.  The number of people listed is how many people are recommended if that is their entire meal.  

However, be aware that it is considered very rude in Switzerland if everyone at the table does not order the equivalent of one meal’s worth of food.  So if 4 people are splitting a two person fondue you might experience some dirty looks and a perturbed waitress if that’s all you order. In Swiss culture you’d be expected to also order two other plates as well.

Go to Interlaken

If you have time to check out Interlaken there is some beautiful scenery around Lake Thun and Lake Brienz.  You can simply drive around the lakes and stop at each of the towns and castles along the way.  There’s some fantastic hikes and some great towns that are sprinkled around the lake.  In particular, you should try to stop at two castles along Thun Lake, Oberhofen Castle and Thun Castle.  The insides of the castles are really phenomenal and cool to walk around.  Beatus Caves look a lot cooler in photos than they are in real life.  The outside has some nice hiking trails built around waterfalls that are really pretty, but the walking tour of the caves is pretty touristy and unspectacular.