Rothenburg is the absolutely quintessential Medieval German fairy tale village. It’s one of Germany’s prettiest cities and one of its only remaining medieval towns not destroyed during World War II. Towards the end of the war, Hitler had instructed all his generals to fight to their last man to keep the allies from reaching Berlin. The war was all but lost at this point and a couple of divisions of Germans were holed up inside the walls of Rothenburg, when the General was called back to Berlin by Hitler to help with the defense of Berlin. The Colonel that was left in charge was killed not longer after.
The Allies were right outside the city and had drawn up plans to bomb the entire city to dust. One of the American officers on the Allied side recognized the city from a painting his mother had on their wall at home from when she had visited the city years ago as a student. She had always talked about how it was the perfect German town.
This American Captain was so moved by his mother’s recollection of this perfect German town that he convinced his commanders to allow him to try to broker a surrender with the Germans before they bombed it. They gave him 24 hours before they would commence with the bombing of the town. Completely on his own he ended up convincing the next German in command, a fellow lowly Captain, that he could save the city from certain ruin if he agreed to retreat (a crime punishable by death). In the end, the German Captain, knowing the war was lost and realizing how futile it would be to refuse only to watch this beloved, ancient German city be turned to dust, agreed that the city was too beautiful to be bombed and gave the order to retreat without asking for permission from above. It’s the only reason the city still stands today. We have these two Captains who brokered a surrender to thank for saving Germany’s most beautiful city for generations to come.
Where to Stay
Burg-Hotel Relais du Silence
We stayed at the Burg-Hotel Relais du Silence. It’s in the perfect location, just a few blocks from the main city square at the center of Rothenburg, but just enough off the beaten path so it’s in a quiet, secluded area, away from all the tourists. The hotel is super nice, they have an excellent breakfast included and the beds are plenty comfortable.
Hotel Eisenhut
Widely considered one of the top places to stay in town, Hotel Eisenhut is also known for the fabulous restaurant. This is an elegant, up-scale hotel and restaurant. We didn’t stay there, but it comes highly recommended.
For some more luxury options check out:
Hotel Herrnschlößschen
Historik Hotel Gotisches Haus Garni
Romantik Hotel Markusturm
Things to Do in Rothenburg
Night Watchman’s Tour
This fantastic tour done in English every night is a wonderful way to explore the city and learn about its history. Hans Georg Baumgartner has become locally famous for conducting this tour for decades. He is a delightful and engaging tour guide that keeps you entertained with wild stories from Rothenburg’s past and tons of jokes. The tour is conducted entirely in English as Hans portrays a Medieval Night Watchman tasked with guarding the city walls after sunset. To join the tour simply show up to the center market square in Rothenburg at 8:00pm on any given Friday or Saturday night and look for the older gentleman in a black hooded cloak, holding a long spear and lantern. At the end of the tour you simply pay him whatever you thought the tour was worth (Note: In covid times to limit the number of people gathering you have to stop at the tourist center in the square during the day to pick up one of the limited tickets for free. You can read even more about the Night Watchman’s Tour HERE.
Walk the City Walls
Stretching 2.5 miles around Rothenburg is an imposing and well preserved medieval wall with 42 spaced out guard towers. Walking the walls is free of charge and there isn’t much to it besides walking around the town and seeing it from a different perspective, while taking in the medieval spectacle of guard towers and archers nests around the town, but on a nice day it’s a great way to explore the city.
Tour the Medieval Crime and Punishment Museum
If you have an interest in the macabre, you can’t miss this museum which focuses on medieval torture devices and ways of punishing criminals in the Middle Ages.
Grab a Photo at the Picturesque Plönlein Corner
There’s arguably no place in Germany that looks more like a Fairy Tale than this small corner of Rothenburg. It looks like a post card come to life. It has also been featured in a couple Disney Movies like Pinocchio and Beauty and the Beast. You can’t come to Rothenburg without snapping this iconic shot.
Climb Town Hall Tower
The large centrally-located tower in the main town square, Rathaustor, can be climbed for fantastic views of Rothenburg by those who don’t mind the 222 steps to the top. Check the hours that the tower is open to the public HERE.
Have a Meal at Zur Höll
Zur Höll essentially means ‘To Hell’ Tavern. Here you’ll sit inside the oldest home in Rothenburg, with a foundation dating back to 970, being transported to the middle ages as you eat traditional German food and local wines in a cave-like, candle-lit room.
Visit Kathe Wohlfahrt’s Christmas Store
If you are in need of any Christmas decorations, Rothenburg is the only place you’ll need to stop. The town is chock full of Christmas gear, but no place does it quite like Käthe Wohlfahrt.
Walk Around the Castle Garden
You’ll stop here briefly on your Nights Watchman Tour, but make sure to take some time to stroll around this beautiful garden directly outside the castle walls.
Tauber River Valley & Vineyard Tour
If you don’t mind a little hike, make sure you take some time to visit the surrounding area. There’s an incredibly scenic loop that’s only about 1.5 miles long where you can see the Wildbad Manor Mansion, the old Gypsum Mill (Gipsmühle), a stone mill and the famous Double Bridge (Wasserschlößchen) that was built in 1388. The entire route is paved so the walk isn’t difficult at all. Just head South out of the Infirmary Quarter, up along the Tauber River and then return back into town from the Northside of Rothenburg’s Castle Garden Park. It’s also possible to rent bikes in town and take the loop by bike.
Attend a Festival
Rothenburg averages a festival every month. They have one of the best Christmas Markets in Germany, a wonderful Franconian Wine Festival and a couple of Renaissance-style Medieval Festivals to check out. One of their most famous festivals, the Master Draught (Der Meistertrunk), which takes place over Pentecost (50 days after Easter), is considered one of the best Summer Festivals in Europe. It’s been going on continuously since 1881. Costumed participants re-enact the invasion of Rothenburg that occurred in 1631 during the 30 year war.
Best Places to Eat and Drink in Rothenburg
The local cuisine is mostly standard German fare. You can expect things like schnitzel, spätzle, roast pork, bratwurst, potato dumplings, sauerkraut, red cabbage and apple strudel. But, one unique item that you should try while in Rothenburg is Schneeball Pastry (snowball in English). This iconic treat dates back to the 1700s. You can find them anywhere in town at the many local confectionary shops, but the ones at Walter Friedel Bakery (Marktplatz #8) (https://www.original-rothenburger-schneeballen.de/) are particularly good. This bakery has been making these glazed cookie balls since 1882.
To Hell Tavern (Zur Höll)
Covered above, this tavern is a must stop on any trip to Rothenburg.
Gasthof Goldener Greifen
This 14th-century inn specializes in tradition Franconian cuisine like pork shoulder with red cabbage and dumplings.
Herrnschlößchen
Creative, seasonal dishes form this unique menu. The building itself is stunning with its 16th-century Gothic arches.
Imperial Kitchen Master Beer Garden
This historic Medieval mansion serves some delicious local food either inside in their farmhouse style dining area or outdoor in their spacious patio.
Old Franconian Wine Bar (Altefraunkische Weinstube)
This old wine bar occupies a home still standing from the 1300s. No place in town is more charming and full of authentic ambience than this place. The food is phenomenal. And, in the evenings this place turns into a lively social scene where locals challenge visitors to games of chess over drinks.
Hotel Eisenhut
An elegant restaurant with live piano music coming from the bar, this place is known for having one of the nicest breakfasts in town.
The Bell Restaurant
Located along picturesque Plönlein Corner, this small place is considered one of the best places to grab a glass of local Franconian Wine. The tasting room is connected with a local vineyard where you can join tours and tasting events.
Master Builder’s House
Completed in 1596, many consider this to be the most beautiful house in all of Rothenburg. The food isn’t bad, but it’s also not the best in town. However, they do have great desserts and stunning murals lining the interior walls. This is a great place to stop in for just a quick coffee and a dessert just to check out the beautiful interior.
Vito Restaurant
The best Italian food in Rothenburg
