Burgundy is one of the premiere wine producing regions in the world, despite accounting for only 4% of France’s total wine production. This small wine producing region is so world renowned, not due to quantity, but because it is recognized as producing some of the highest quality wines anywhere on Earth. They are known for expertly crafting single grape red and white wines. Their white wines (which make up around 60% of the production) are made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes and their red wines (accounting for 30% of their production) are made exclusively from Pinot Noir grapes. The rest of the production (10%) is in the form of Crément de Bourgogne, Burgundy’s sparkling wine.
This is a destination for serious wine drinkers. Due to the limited wine production of the region and the high demand from around the world, the wines can be exquisitely expensive. On the lowest end of the cost spectrum you can still find absolutely incredible bottles of wine in the 20-40EUR price range (an absolute bargain by US standards). However, it is not uncommon for the higher end bottles to hover around 200-300EUR per bottle, even when bought directly from the vineyards. Whereas, elsewhere in Europe you might expect to spend between 10-30EUR per bottle when buying directly from the vineyards, you can expect to spend 30-90EUR per bottle in most vineyards here, with certain bottles being even more expensive.
When you come to this region for vacation, you will undoubtedly be doing so to taste wines, buy wines and finally eat at the abundance of Michelin rated restaurants that you literally trip over while walking through the surrounding towns. The countryside is beautiful, the towns are gorgeous, but the main event here will be wine. As such you should plan on booking at least one all day wine tasting tour, a private tasting and/or bike excursion to the surrounding villages.
The Burgundy wine region, Bourgogne in French, is a relatively thin strip of hilly land on the west side of the Rhine River that runs from Dijon in the north to Mâcon in the south. As you move from north to south the production of wine transitions from mostly reds to mostly whites. Starting in the north, you will first move through the Côte de Nuits region which is known for their dark red, oak aged Pinot Noirs, then Côte de Beaune which has a great mix of reds and whites and then Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais which are more known for their white Chardonnays. Set off from this north/south wine corridor, is the area of Chablis which is located off in the northwest from the rest of Burgundy. Chablis produces only white Chardonnay.
Burgundy wine classification is one of the most complicated in the world. They operate, like the majority of Europe under the terroir style classification system. This means that the wines are named, not by their grape like in the United States, but by the area of land on which the grape grows. The thought is that the soil, sunlight, precipitation, and particular microclimate of different plots of land has more to do with the resultant taste of a bottle of wine than simply the type of grape used.
In Burgundy this notion is taken to its extreme. Based on hundreds, if not thousands of years of combined viticultural experience, scientific tests, core soil samples and studying the tastes of the resultant wines, the gatekeepers of this wine region have divided up the region into thousands of unique and individually named plots, called Climats, which are all thought to bestow a unique taste on the wines produced from their grapes. It is not uncommon for multiple different producers to own vines on the same plot of land. These different producers will ultimately name their different wines for the plot of land from which the grape came with their vineyards name secondary.
The classification includes four different levels. The first is simply what is referred to as the Regional or District Classifications. Wines classified by their region are not produced from grapes from a single plot of land, they are made from grapes blended from many different plots of land that all happen to be in the same region. There are 22 regional and district appellations. These wines are made from the lesser ranked vineyard plots, but are still quite good. They make up just over 40% of the production of wine in Burgundy.
The next classification is referred to as Commune or Communal. There are 53 separate communal appellations named for the specific villages in which they reside. A communally classified wine will be made from grapes that were all sourced from the vineyards around a single village or from a single vineyard that has not achieved Premier Cru status. The bottles will typically be named by the village and then followed by the name of the vineyard. This type of wine makes up around 35% of the total production in Burgundy.
Finally, there are two classifications for wines produced from grapes that all originate from a single vineyard on a single plot of land. The highest rated plots of land, the ones that are thought to consistently produce the best grapes for wine production due to their unique soil and microclimate are individually named, revered and used to produce single vineyard wines. The best of the best of these plots are called Grand Cru, and the rest are called Premier Cru.
Premier Cru bottles will be named with the name of the village followed by the name of the specific vineyard plot that is classified and certified as Premier Cru. (Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques 1er Cru, for example, where Gevrey Chambertin is the name of the village and Clos St Jacques is the name of the specific vineyard plot). There are 585 premier cru vineyards and they account for just under 20% of the regions wines.
Grand Cru wines will be named by the vineyard plot only followed by the words “Grand Cru.” There are only 32 vineyard plots that have achieved Grand Cru status and they account for less than 5% of the regions wine production. Further complicating things is the idea that a Premier Cru plot of land that sits besides or between a couple of Grand Cru plots is closer to a Grand Cru than other Premier Cru and therefore is a more valuable bottle of wine. The same applies for Village wines that are taken from single Climats that are adjacent or surrounded by Premier Cru.
It would take most amateur wine enthusiasts a lifetime to learn all the different Climats and designations and memorize their position relative to each other, but that is the basics of what you will need to understand when talking about Burgundy wines. The only other thing you need to know is that Chardonnay from Burgundy is nothing like Chardonnay from the States. If you don’t like the over-oaked, buttery Chardonnays from California, you will most likely love the well balanced version of this wine made in Burgundy. If you want even more detail, please check out this fantastic website for more information.
Beaune
The best place to stay on any trip to the Burgundy region is the town of Beaune (pronounced: ‘Bone’). Beaune is located in the heart of the aptly named Côte de Beaune, it is surrounded by some of Burgundy’s best wine producing vineyards and it is home to one of the highest density of Michelin starred restaurants anywhere on Earth. There are 7 one-star Michelin restaurants and 1 three-star Michelin restaurant in this tiny town.
Where to Stay
Hostellerie Le Cèdre
We stayed at Hostellerie le Cèdre & Spa right in the center of Beaune and could not say more great things about this hotel. The grounds were gorgeous, the hotel itself was stunning, the rooms, large and comfortable with some of the nicest beds you’ll find anywhere in Europe, their staff was incredibly helpful and friendly and finally their restaurant was absolutely incredible. Make sure to book a room here and reserve a table at their fantastic restaurant.
Where to Eat
Hostellerie Cèdar
As mentioned above, this was a fantastic restaurant, with a great tasting menu, a fantastic wine pairing and an even better atmosphere, outside in their picturesque garden.
Bissoh
If you are like us and eating rich, fatty, cold, mushy and often times puréed meat gets old after a few days in France, you’ll want to break up the French cuisine with something a little different and Bissoh is just the place to do that. Bissoh is a Japanese restaurant with strong French influences and a fantastic wine selection. They also have some of the best homemade ice cream we’ve ever had.
Caves Madeleine
For a low-key night in a small courtyard with some excellent French cuisine check out Caves Madeleine.
Garum Table Vivante
For a great, reasonable French meal within eyesight of the Hospices de Beaune, look no further than Garum Table Vivante. Here you’ll enjoy traditional French cuisine in a warm, rustic and inviting atmosphere.
Other highly recommended spots are Bistro des Cocottes, Bistro au Bord de l’Eau and La Dilettante.
Things to Do
Kim’s Wine Tour
Kim is a passionate sommelier that will organize and curate a full day wine tasting experience with a private guide (usually herself) who will take you around to different wineries to taste endless amounts of wine while explaining in great detail everything you need to know about wine production, classification and tasting in Burgundy. The best way to contact her is via email (kim@journeysinwine.com) and she will take care of planning the entire day from start to finish and will even make reservations for you for dinner after. Expect to pay approximately 200EUR per person (or more depending on what you want planned) for all the tastings, food, transportation and guide work.
Our tour lasted from about 9am till 7pm. We visited three wineries (Domaine Coste-Caumartin in Pommard, Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine in Pernand-Vergelesses and Domaine Réné Cacheux in Vosne-Romanée), in addition to stopping at Bistro des Cocottes for lunch. It was one of the best days of wine tasting we’ve ever had.
Vosne Tasting Club
If you are interested in trying some of the best wines from the region, wines that go for 300-400EUR per bottle, one of the best places to taste a fantastic assortment of these wines is the Vosne Tasting Club. Here in a couples private and immaculately restored wine cellar you can build any number of tastings. They have tastings that range from 25EUR to 150EUR per person. If you go, make sure you go around lunch time and add their brunch option on to the tasting. This amazing plate of food is the perfect pairing with your wines and makes for a fantastic lunch.
Bike Ride Through the Vineyards
Either rent or bring your own e-bikes and spend the day riding through the easy to follow and well marked bike trail that runs through the vineyards and towns of the region. On your ride make sure to stop at plenty of wineries along the way for wine tastings. Many smaller wineries, some of which are simply small wine producer’s homes, are closed on Sunday’s and some even on Saturdays. If you’re in Burgundy for a few days, try to do this on a week day to maximize your chances of wine tastings. The best place to rent e-bikes is a place called Active Tours which is a short walk outside of the city center. You can book online at their website. They offer bike rentals, self guided and guided tours, multi-day tours, as well as information on hiking as well.
Château de Pommard
One of our all time favorite wineries, this is a must stop either by car or bike. They have some of the best wines you’ll find anywhere in the region, an incredibly engaging staff and a fantastic wine tasting experience that runs only 18EUR per person. Book in advance or show up unannounced, either way, don’t leave Burgundy without stopping here. They are also renovating the buildings on their vineyard and will be opening a hotel on the premises in 2022.
Hospices de Beaune
No trip to Beaune is complete without a stop at their famous Hôtel-Dieu Museum – Hospices de Beaune. The Hospices de Beaune was originally built in 1443 as a public hospital for the people of the region. This medieval hospital functioned as a place to take care of the regions sick from 1452 up to the 20th century. The structure itself is beautiful, it is filled with some gorgeous works of art and it functions today as a museum that you can walk through and enjoy in under an hour. Make reservations online by clicking the link above to minimize wait times at the entrance.
